At the end of January I took my three- and five-year-old on our first ever solo camping trip — just us, a small tent, and a lake in the middle of Canterbury’s high country. Lake Camp, Ashburton Lakes, is a stunning and slightly remote-feeling spot great for camping with kids in Canterbury.

It was the end of January when I finally got myself together, found and packed up all the gear I needed, told the kids I was taking them somewhere peaceful to camp, and headed toward Ashburton Lakes with my two young kids for the first time solo.

What stopped me from going earlier

For months I had been itching to get out on a Canterbury camping trip somewhere a little off the beaten track in a tent with just me and the kids, but I had lots of thoughts holding me back… the hassle of being in charge of the full set-up without another parent to help. What if there are weirdos at the campsite and I’m the only adult? What if the kids are upset the whole time and I have to manage that on top of all the camping logistics? How will I manage when they’re both wanting to do opposite things (a common occurrence)? How will I handle keeping an eye on both kids when the early bird wakes up at 5am while the other needs more sleep, without using the TV? How will I manage their safety around water on my own? You get the idea.

Come January I finally pushed through the anxiety and went for it. I packed the smaller tramping tent instead of the big inflatable one, threw in less-than-sufficient temperature-rated sleeping bags but added loads of blankets, mixed old and new sleeping mats for a live experiment in comfort, added the lifejackets, and ordered simple camping food for delivery the night before. I got it all in the car, went to bed late, overthought everything, and tried to sleep before solo-parent camping with a three- and five-year-old the next day.

The drive into Hakatere

The two-hour drive went as well as you could hope with two little humans in the back. Screens were used for some of it after our Rakaia playground and “crap do I need to get cash out for the campsite?” stop at the Rakaia Four Square, until we entered the Hakatere Conservation Area and I wanted us all to look out at the changing scenery as we drew nearer to Lake Camp.

Sealed roads turned to gravel and I got that “ahhh, we’re entering the wilderness” feeling I’d hoped for. The kids pointed out kāhu/harrier hawks circling against golden tussock-covered mountains. I couldn’t shake a slight disappointment at first, comparing it to snowy, mirror-lake images I’d seen online. The mountains were ‘dry’, the lake lower than expected, and a bit of wind on the water. But that feeling didn’t last. It made me want to understand this landscape better and come back to further appreciate what this environment actually holds. Growing up in the Tasman region, our outdoor experiences often involved lush forest. This area is different, but holds a different kind of beauty in its own right.

After about 15km of gravel road we reached Lake Camp. We drove slowly around the rutted driveways (kids loving the bumps) to suss out potential spots, then headed five minutes across to Lake Clearwater to compare. Thanks to the DOC worker for clarifying my understanding of where we could and couldn’t camp. After half an hour of scoping, we landed back where we started at the eastern end of Lake Camp.

Setting up camp at Ōtautari/Lake Camp

We found a spot between the trees to set up camp for the night

It’s currently free to camp at Ōtautari/Lake Camp. We shared the area with families enjoying the holidays, a group of homeschooling whānau, a solo motorcyclist in a tiny bivy tent, and several campervans. The only facilities are long-drop toilets, so you need to be self-sufficient. We swam instead of showering and brought a travel potty for the kids rather than trekking to the wharepaku each time. I was quietly proud we weren’t contributing to the small piles of toilet paper in the trees behind our tent. It’s cool to be responsible.

We chose a spot between — but not too close to — the trees (apparently the wind can get wild), where I could see the lake from the tent and the tent from the lake for those inevitable opposite-direction moments. We piled out and got straight into putting up the tent. I was determined to get it set up before our planned mini adventure while spirits were still high. In hindsight, a little more time for lake exploration first might have been nice, but I was intent on getting. that. tent. up. and achieving our adventure plans while we were feeling fresh.

Our Mt Sunday side-trip

Swing bridge over the Rangitata River looking towards Mt Sunday

After lunch and snacks (croissants, smoked salmon, salami, chocolate from memory), and despite the kids wanting to play at the lake, I packed us back into the car with the hiking carrier. I knew they’d handle the adventure better that afternoon than after a potentially rubbish sleep. Lake time could wait.

At Mt Sunday carpark, after twenty more minutes of gravel road, we slotted in between campervans (so many travelling babies), slapped on sunblock and headed off. I couldn’t believe I forgot the sunhats at home for this trip. It’s a short 3km return short walk with incredible bang for buck. The kids loved it. We learned about spawning salmon in the clear Rangitata River and spotted rabbits. There was wind visibly swirling over the rocky river beds. Hakatere feels vast here — big mountains, 360-degree views. Mostly flat with a short climb at the end, my five-year-old did it under his own steam and my three-year-old alternated between the pack and running after her brother (like up and down a million times).

Swimming, fishing and slow lakeside hangs

Fishing in the morning mist at Lake Camp, Ashburton Lakes

Back at camp we boiled American hot dogs on the gas stove, then swam. We’d chosen this spot because it looked good for swimming and possibly deep enough for fishing — both things we love. We played on one of the two metal swimming platforms and chatted with other camper kids, sharing jumps and splashes with new temporary outdoor friends.

As the sun set, we fished and mucked about at the lake’s edge and this was the moment the real beauty of this place hit me. It is amazing how changing light shows a whole new visual perspective of a place. The mountains towered around the lake and by morning the conditions had shifted again, adding another layer of magic. I knew we’d be back.

We slept on a double inflatable mattress wedged between two single tramping mats. The kids drifted off unusually easily for camping before the end of our bedtime book. I snuck out for a few photos of the lit-up tent, then went to sleep hoping my mat wouldn’t deflate.

It did.

Breastfeeding a three-year-old on a deflated mat while they’re on an inflated one is tricky. But the sleepless night was wiped away when my fishing-mad son shot out of the tent at 6am (a small sleep in!) and the lake had transformed into a misty wonderland.

For six hours he fished between Lake Camp and Lake Clearwater, catching nothing but completely absorbed. My girl happily moved between the tent, the lake’s edge, music and snacks in the car. At one point a kārearea (New Zealand falcon) swooped overhead and landed in a tree nearby. It flew off before I could show my son.

What surprised me about Lake Camp

The quieter Lake Clearwater, Ashburton Lakes

It was great seeing basic small homemade boats crafted by young teenagers, paddleboards, kayaks and people fishing from the shore. I hadn’t expected quite so many speed boats hooning around with skis and sea biscuits. I wonder if it would be less in the shoulder seasons. Toward the end when the sensory cup was overfull my son said, “Mum, you DIDN’T take us somewhere peaceful!”

Motorised watercraft aren’t permitted on Lake Clearwater, so if you’re after quieter serenity, head there instead. You can always pop back to Lake Camp for swims. This is probably what we will do next time.

Heading home

Our 24-hour escape came to a close with tired kids (who had had a blast) and a very fast pack-down — everything shoved into the car to deal with later (admittedly much later). I felt happy and fulfilled ticking off my first solo camping trip with the kids and coming away confident I could do it again soon.

Lake Camp with kids: things that were handy to know

Consider your environmental impact and plan how you’ll manage household and human waste. A portable potty was helpful for us.
Lake Camp offers more flexible camping spots on two sides of the lake. Lake Clearwater has one small designated area, is volunteer-maintained, and costs $10 (honesty box). Facilities there include a hose-wash toilet and hook for a solar shower.
No dogs allowed in this area.
Take all rubbish home with you.
Lifejackets came in handy here while overseeing the safety of two young kids on the lakeshore

If you have been camping here before, I’d love to hear about your experience in the comments! And if you have any questions about our trip, go ahead and ask.

Until the next adventure,

Jasmine

Camping and Fishing with Kids at Lake Camp | Ashburton Lakes, Canterbury